Traditional does not mean repetitive, it is the root from which every cook develops branches and adds his own leaves. Tuscan gastronomic tradition offers a lot of opportunities to those who aim to create new dishes with professionalism and imagination, without leaving the grounding basis of local products, which are ever more important at a time in which biodiversity is returning to be such an important element. Nicola Dolfi illustrates this desire to reinterpret tradition, as he has launched into a particular combination between a typical vegetable from our kitchen such as black cabbage, and a key element of our popular tradition like lampredotto.
The dish is tasty, daring in flavors if not realized with rightly dosed proportions, and highly effective. It is a tortello of homemade pasta with lampredotto stuffing and black cabbage and Tuscan pecorino cheese dressing. “It all started from the lampredotto which is usually used for the same dishes – Chef Nicola explains – and I wondered if I could use it as a stuffing to create a different dish. Therefore, I started from the handmade pasta, leaving this thicker, creating a tortello filled with lampredotto, and mixed with boiled potatoes instead of the usual ricotta cheese. The pesto, instead, is made from walnuts and pine nuts, but with black cabbage instead of basil. Be careful, it is very important not to heat it directly on the heat, because the components tend to separate and the amalgamation would be compromised”.
It is a dish of great intensity, which distinguishes itself straight away from an olfactory point of view, exalted by the black cabbage aroma and by a deeper green with respect to the one obtained by using the traditional basil. “It is a typically traditional dish – Nicola reminds us – therefore I think it shouldn’t be presented too richly decorated, because it should express the idea of rusticity”.